Tuesday, May 21, 2013

Blowin' in the wind

The  road to Sidi  Kaouki.
 Today we shared it with cows, but as you know, on  other days it has been sheep, goats and manic moped riders, The site is clean and modern, with a toilet block framed with geraniums and bougainvillaea.

Having stayed at a town site and taken
advantage of the retail therapy on offer ( I bought and a small Berber rug, made from camel wool and beautifully patterned with Moroccan designs ), we are now ten miles south, in the middle of nowhere, with the sea on our door step.
Actually it's not as bleak as it sounds. There are the beginnings of tourist developments, such as our lovely campsite set amongst argon trees, complete with resident tortoise and a couple of kittens. We are told that fresh bread will be delivered in the morning, by a man on a donkey!
There are a few auberges being built, but like most of the construction work in Morocco, one wonders when they will be completed.
That aside, we have just had a platter of mixed fish for lunch, fresh from the sea, washed down with freshly squeezed orange and banana drinks. Yummy!
As is the norm, the campsite is enclosed by a decent sized wall, but from our chosen pitch, we can see white horses on the crests of waves, as the strong wind hurls the turquoise waters up the gently shelving beach. Apparently, here at Sidi Kaouki, close to Cap Sim, the waves are so powerful, that it is safe for only the most experienced surfers. One can only wonder what went through the minds of all these lean, brown, muscled- up guys, when we two old girls wandered into their scene!
The beach is splendid. It a wide crescent between the headlands and camels roam the poor grazing between the sand and the single track road.
A mausoleum, which appears to rise up out of the water, is at the far end of the bay. It is the tomb of a holy man, who, as legend would have it, had the power to cure infertility. Even today, there is an annual pilgrimage made by devotees, although having experienced the vast numbers of people everywhere in Morocco, the tomb might better serve as a site for a pilgrimage to resist the temptations of the flesh!!
The wind has blown all day. Not a gentle breeze but sufficiently strong, that you can lean backwards and it will support you. We feel buffeted and exhausted. Walking is a great effort and you are constantly shielding your eyes from the sand. It is also quite chilly, so the decision is to move a little further north, perhaps as far as Safi along the R301 and hope for some calmer surroundings.
Two breeze blocks, five litres of water and a mop handle to prevent the door from slamming in the wind! We camping-car travellers have to be inventive.

No comments:

Post a Comment